My grandmother Somekawa had very specific sushi-making rules. It was very important to fan the hot rice so that it would have a nice sheen. She would know if I didn't vigorously fan the rice and if I shirked my responsibility by just letting the rice cool on its own.
For makizushi (see photo) colorful ingredients are necessary to set off the white/sheened rice and black seaweed (nori): green (spinach or green beans); dark brown (shitake mushrooms); light brown (kampyo or gourd shavings); yellow (egg -- do not let them get brown -- or takuwan/pickled daikon radish); red (benishoga -- pickled ginger, but not gari -- the pickled ginger served with sushi).
Flavoring was just as important as visual presentation. But, I make my sushi a little more vinegary than she did. There's a lot of sugar in the other ingredients and I like to have the contrast.
Makizushi
Nori -- toasted over flame
Rice -- fanned vigorously until cook
Vinegar mixture -- heat with sugar and a touch of salt until blended
Dashi -- soup stock with soy sauce and a little sugar
Leaf spinach -- steam, squeeze dry
Shitake mushroom -- hydrate, if using dried mushrooms, cook in dashi
Kampyo -- hydrate and cook very slightly in dashi
Egg omelet -- beat eggs with a little salt and cook slowly in pan; turn gently without disturbing shape; do not brown
Beni shoga
Lay out nori on mat; put thin layer of rice on nori; lay out other ingredients; roll.
Inarizushi
Inarizushi skins (if using fresh skins, cut in half, boil in water and then in dashi; otherwise use canned (if using canned, drain and then soak briefly in prepared dashi (see above)
Fill with vinegared rice
Tie with kampyo to make festive packets
Tuesday, March 8, 2011
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