Going with the flow

For a jaded New Yorker getting around while traveling just isn't the same as hopping on the subway or hailing a taxi around town.

After getting to the coast of San Blas, we peeled ourselves out of the Land Cruiser like we were olives in a press. The driver backed up a very slippery, steep, muddy hill and we retrieved our luggage. Then, we had to lug everything down the other side of the muddy hill with too few logs strategically placed too far apart for my short legs. How did the guys with their loaded-up bicycles and the women with their flipflops make it down!??! Well, somehow we all did and made our way into two long dugout canoes.

Floating down the river through the lush vegetation reminded me why I got all those shots and glad that I'm taking anti-malarial pills. It was beautiful. I had plastered on the sunscreen before we left but it was no match for the blazing sun beating down on us. The Kuna people paddling by didn't need hats, sunglasses, sunscreen, etc.

When we reached the Caribbean, the spectacular scenery changed to picture-postcard perfect vistas. The blue-green water with the puffy white clouds in the amazing blue sky framed by random lush green islands. As our boat paddlers glided us through the water, we reached some habited islands with a few sail boats anchored offshore. I saw one beautiful large boat and thought too bad we can't go on that one. But, then our canoe slid along side and we began unloading. This was it! Our home for the next five days and four nights-- Der Stahlratte.

How can I summarize five days and four nights?!

People
The wonderful, competent crew were 3/4th German-speaking. I was able to brush up on some German vocabulary (which actually wasn't so good for the rest of my trip because German words kept popping up when I reached for Spanish).

The other passengers were interesting, seasoned travelers from all over and most like Alisa were at some stage of their own amazing journeys.

The Kuna people who stopped by the boat to sell their wares provided a tantalizing glimpse of another world. There was a man with his son who provided healthy, fresh produce and took away the empty aluminum cans for recycling. I'm not sure why I was so disappointed to see the son eagerly hang around waiting for the crew to offer him a drink and then for him to quickly ask for a soda. But, check out my terrific ankle bracelet that a Kuna woman wove on me. Both of her legs from ankle to knee were beaded in a fantastic design.

The accommodations
When we first boarded, Alisa and I were not quick enough to claim bunks. So, the only two left were top bunks with guys on the bottom. It was a little awkward when my bunkmate threw open the curtains while I was changing clothes. Katya, one of the crew, was very nice to ask Paul, a fellow traveler, to give up his double room at the back of the boat for Alisa and me. And, wonderful Paul was more than gracious to do so.

The crew laid out the rules upfront. Yikes, I thought, one toilet and shower for 19 people. The rules included that men had to sit down (no exceptions) when using the toilet. But, they were encouraged if they preferred to pee standing up to aim over the side of the boat. Anyway, it all seemed to work out.

Food
The food was terrific. So, vegetarian-friendly. We each signed up for a day of kitchen duty. I think that added to the delight. Huge fresh fruit salads (please note, Nate, loaded with bananas). Delicious breads. Hearty soups. Exactly my kind of food.

Venue
There are not adequate adjectives for the idyllic settings. Even being there during the rainy season didn't put a damper on the trip. The islands with white sands looked like a movie set. I must admit though that my tender feet were not able to stand up to the little shells and pebbles that always seemed to be waiting wherever I stepped. But, it was beautiful to look at.

Note to self: I will need to toughen up my pampered feet if I'm going to survive on the open seas. I wasn't even able to climb the pole ladders on the boat unless I was wearing sandals.

The Boat
What an amazing, old-fashioned sail boat! We only had all of the sails up once when we first boarded and sailed to the uninhabited islands that would be our backyard for two days. But, even then with all of the sails up, the boat still had to operate under motor. When I asked the captain about this, he seemed surprised that anyone would even comment on this. (He didn't know he was talking to card-carrying member of the Manhattan Sailing Club!) He said that the boat was so old and big that only under very ideal situations with just the right winds could the boat go with only sails. The riggings are beautiful but it must be very difficult to tack and jibe.

But, when we were "sailing" at night, the engine was a little too loud, hot and oily for Alisa and me to sleep in the room next to it so we ended up sleeping in the common areas.

All-in-all, this was definitely a great way to start our trip.