Apparently, many of the passengers on the Stahlratte from Colombia to Jamaica had gotten seasick. But, the trip from Jamaica north was relatively smooth. The winds were blowing just right for part of the voyage so that we were able to sail without the engine on. Very tranquil indeed!
How strange to sail off with not another boat or land in sight (I'm not in Manhattan anymore)! Just the stars, the moon and endless water. Apparently, during the night, the night crew spotted another ship within three miles. In the dark of night, it's never clear whether the other ship is watching and if they are, do they recognize that we are a sailboat which technically has right of way.
During dinner, Captain Ludwig was very clear what the rules would be upon entry. Absolutely zero tolerance for drugs and that the authorities would be very careful inspecting a boat coming in from Jamaica. Also, Ludwig told us about going too close or taking photos near Gitmo. He told of a former passenger who flaunted this restriction and did not fare well.
I was the only passenger to join the ship in Jamaica and no one had left the boat so all of the berths except a top bunk near the prow was taken. But, Joán, a crew member from Spain, very graciously gave me his lower berth so I didn't have to climb up to the small claustrophobic cubby. I slept well to the gentle rocking but awoke early at about 4:30.
Land ahoy!! Far off in the horizon was a coastline!!! Yes, we were getting closer.
How beautiful! As the sun rose on the day, we made our way into the harbor! A gorgeous setting to begin the long wait to clear immigrations and customs inspections.
To say that the inspectors were thorough would be an understatement. They went through every little bag and pocket in my knapsack and shoulder bag. They went through every container and inspected each item carefully. They asked about my breath mints, checked out my multivitamin and calcium pills, played with my little flashlight. As they lifted my mattress to inspect, my heart stopped. I thought to myself, OMG, I didn't even think to look there to make sure there was no contraband. But, the thorough inspection and the trained canine squad found nothing in my processions. They were very respectful and carefully put everything back.
Most of the other travelers had many more bags than I. One woman reported that they collected lint from the pocket of her backpack for testing. Another man was happy that they uncovered a tool that he had been searching for. One woman said that the inspector very carefully checked out her tampons. Another man had a collection of botanicals seized for testing. The end result was all together six illicit seeds from two passengers were detected and serious fines were levied but no one was incarcerated. The motorcyclists had to go through further registration processes but in the end we all were able to go ashore. The Swedes discovered on their visas that their nationality had been changed to Swiss.
A woman at the marina info booth said that she knew a man who had a casa particular (a home that is licensed to rent rooms to travelers). So, she took off in a taxi to lead the way as several of us piled into another taxi. Along the way, there was a loud boom and thunk-a-thunk-a-thunk. The driver must have been in denial because it wasn't until Alisa looked back out the side window from the front seat and confirmed that it was a flat tire that he stopped. But, he quickly and deftly changed the tire demonstrating that it was not the first one that he had experienced. Just as quickly and deftly the first taxi had driven in reverse back on the highway to join us.
Some of our shipmates stayed at one casa particular and we stayed at his mother's place. It seems that rental rooms in casas particulares all are well-equipped with a bathroom, air conditioner, and access to a refrigerator and television. In Santiago, the flat-screen televisions are definitely several generations ahead of my old TV at home.
Santiago is a bustling city with beautiful architecture. The streets are incredibly immaculate with no hint of any litter. There are hustlers everywhere trying to sell or coax customers into their establishiments. I walk around trying to take in all the sights but oblivious to individual people. Alisa told me that I need to be more neighborly but when I said, "Buenos dias," to some guys who responded with kissy sounds, she let me know that I need to be more discriminating in my friendliness. Guess my sketchiness radar is not yet honed.
We've been warned that the food here is not much to get excited about. But, as the vegetarian selections are few and far between, I'm just excited to find things that don't have meat.
How strange to sail off with not another boat or land in sight (I'm not in Manhattan anymore)! Just the stars, the moon and endless water. Apparently, during the night, the night crew spotted another ship within three miles. In the dark of night, it's never clear whether the other ship is watching and if they are, do they recognize that we are a sailboat which technically has right of way.
During dinner, Captain Ludwig was very clear what the rules would be upon entry. Absolutely zero tolerance for drugs and that the authorities would be very careful inspecting a boat coming in from Jamaica. Also, Ludwig told us about going too close or taking photos near Gitmo. He told of a former passenger who flaunted this restriction and did not fare well.
I was the only passenger to join the ship in Jamaica and no one had left the boat so all of the berths except a top bunk near the prow was taken. But, Joán, a crew member from Spain, very graciously gave me his lower berth so I didn't have to climb up to the small claustrophobic cubby. I slept well to the gentle rocking but awoke early at about 4:30.
Land ahoy!! Far off in the horizon was a coastline!!! Yes, we were getting closer.
How beautiful! As the sun rose on the day, we made our way into the harbor! A gorgeous setting to begin the long wait to clear immigrations and customs inspections.
To say that the inspectors were thorough would be an understatement. They went through every little bag and pocket in my knapsack and shoulder bag. They went through every container and inspected each item carefully. They asked about my breath mints, checked out my multivitamin and calcium pills, played with my little flashlight. As they lifted my mattress to inspect, my heart stopped. I thought to myself, OMG, I didn't even think to look there to make sure there was no contraband. But, the thorough inspection and the trained canine squad found nothing in my processions. They were very respectful and carefully put everything back.
Most of the other travelers had many more bags than I. One woman reported that they collected lint from the pocket of her backpack for testing. Another man was happy that they uncovered a tool that he had been searching for. One woman said that the inspector very carefully checked out her tampons. Another man had a collection of botanicals seized for testing. The end result was all together six illicit seeds from two passengers were detected and serious fines were levied but no one was incarcerated. The motorcyclists had to go through further registration processes but in the end we all were able to go ashore. The Swedes discovered on their visas that their nationality had been changed to Swiss.
A woman at the marina info booth said that she knew a man who had a casa particular (a home that is licensed to rent rooms to travelers). So, she took off in a taxi to lead the way as several of us piled into another taxi. Along the way, there was a loud boom and thunk-a-thunk-a-thunk. The driver must have been in denial because it wasn't until Alisa looked back out the side window from the front seat and confirmed that it was a flat tire that he stopped. But, he quickly and deftly changed the tire demonstrating that it was not the first one that he had experienced. Just as quickly and deftly the first taxi had driven in reverse back on the highway to join us.
Some of our shipmates stayed at one casa particular and we stayed at his mother's place. It seems that rental rooms in casas particulares all are well-equipped with a bathroom, air conditioner, and access to a refrigerator and television. In Santiago, the flat-screen televisions are definitely several generations ahead of my old TV at home.
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